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The different types of silk fabric

Types of Silk

There are many different kinds of silk which vary in the way the silk is crafted from the individual threads into a fabric. A few different types are:

Plain Silk

A range of thin silk to deluxe qualities are produced in this category using filature. Fabrics ranging from 20 gm to 70 gm are produced in this category using both handloom as well as powerloom. Plain silk is mostly used by exporters for making ladies blouses, fashion garments and scarves. Deluxe and super deluxe qualities can be produced for large quantity orders.

Crepe de Chine Silk

Crepe de chine is a lightweight fabric made by twisting some fibers clockwise and others counterclockwise. The twisted fibers are then woven in a plain-weave fabric, but it's the twisted fibers, not the weave, that gives crepe its distinctive "pebbly" look and feel rather than a shiny luster. Both sides of the fabric look and feel the same.
When purchasing ready-made clothing or considering this fabric for sewing, avoid using it in tailored styles because the fabric is too soft to hold a structured shape.

Chiffon Silk

Using highly twisted yarn, a thin but strong fabric is produced on power looms, which after processing and finishing attains a soft and smooth texture. Chiffons are used for various ladies garments and scarves. It is often the lightest weight and most diaphanous of the silks, Chiffon is also the most see-through. It creates the "billows" of fabric that add dimension to garments, but generally requires some kind of lining or backing unless it's used for scarves.

Habutai Silk

China silk is a lightweight, sheer, plain-weave fabric. It's sometimes referred to as habutai, or habotai, or pongee. It is one of the less expensive and more commonly available silk fabrics.

Habotai can often be found as light as 5 mm and as heavy as 12 mm. When purchasing for clothing construction, or purchasing ready-made clothing, this fabric is not recommended for fitted garment styles because the seams will tear from the stress.

Shantung / Tussah Silk

Tussah silk, often called shantung, is made from the cocoons of wild tussah silk worms who eat oak and juniper leaves – their "natural" food. Because the worm isn't grown in a controlled environment, the moth hatches from the cocoon thus interrupting the filament length and making the fibers short and coarse instead of long and lustrous.

Tussah silk is difficult to dye and to most often available in its natural color, a creamy tan. Because of its irregular slubs and the fact that it ravels easily, tussah should be dry-cleaned. It is a good choice for travelling as it doesn't wrinkle easily.

Jacquard Silk

Jacquard silks offer various woven patterns, using matte and reflective threads to create a light and dark effect in the fabric. This effect is similar to brocade, although the Jacquard is originally created in one color. These are generally heavier weight and more densely woven. Patterns are often florals and paisleys.

Douppioni Silk

Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. It is often made into elegant evening gowns or semi-fitted vests and garments. But make sure the style isn't too fitted, because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily.

It's often recommended that douppioni be drycleaned to resist abrasions. However, as with most silk, you can generally wash douppioni with positive results. Just be sure to serge the raw edges first to prevent raveling. Washing will make the fabric lose some of its stiffness, which may be your preference, and the color will soften as the excess dye is washed away.

Noil Silk

Silk noil is made from the short fibers left after combing and carding so it doesn't shine like many other silk fabrics. Noil looks similar to cotton, but has the soft feel of silk against the skin. It also drapes better than cotton and resists wrinkling, so it's the perfect choice when traveling.

It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low, but this will cause a faded, "weathered" look. If you prefer bright colors, dry-clean or hand wash.

Raw Silk

Raw silk is any silk yarn or fabric that hasn't had the sericin - the natural "gum" that protects the fiber - removed. The fabric is stiff and dull and the sericin tends to attract dirt and odors.

Chinnon

This is produced from highly twisted yarn of filature in power loom. After the final processing and finishing the fabric gets a soft but crimp effect. Chinnon is ideal for ladies dresses and scarves.

Organza

A very thin fabric produced from highly twisted yarn. After a starchy finish the fabric gets a rough texture. Organza is used as sari material as well as for embroidered garments.

Satin Silk

Satin Silk is woven from smoothly spun yarn, resulting in a lustrous finish. Silk satins are a popular variety of fabric used for a varied end use. When made into dresses satin gives an elegant Look.

Tabby Silk

A type of plain silk fabric produced in Kashmir. Tabby silk is mostly used for printed saris and scarves.

Crepe de chine doesn't ravel as easily as other silk fabrics, but it will tear if not handled gently.

Charmeuse

Generally, when we think of traditional silk, this is the fabric we have in mind. The back of the fabric is a flattened crepe while the front is a shimmery satin weave.

Charmeuse has even more drape than crepe de chine and works well for scarves, blouses and lingerie.

About the Author

Orchid Silks - A premium supplier of wholesale china silk dresses, silk scarves, silk bedding and more, direct from silk manufacturers and suppliers in Yangzhou, China.

http://www.orchidsilks.com

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